"Banaras is older than history, older than tradition, older
even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together"
-Mark Twain
In Banaras, you're probably likely to see men with shaved heads
and a pony more often than in any other city; more likely to hear the
reverberance of a temple bell ever so often, and more likely to find a shop
selling religious artefacts at almost every corner.
Although quite forgotten in the new world, Banaras still boasts
of deepest roots- of a civilization that prospered along the banks of
the holy Ganga, of being the oldest settlement in India. With most of its
narrow ancient streets climbing only to later slope down to the Ganga, Banaras
is a story completely different from the other ancient cities. Much like
Mathura, parts of the city display memoirs of impressive craftsmanship on its
ageing buildings which you start to notice when you are travelling in a
rickety auto. The true colours of a city are really
seen on its streets. The city remains in much mediocrity and neglect, with
haphazardly hanging electric wires ruining most street corners, broken roads,
and the increasingly popular need to 'westernise'. Large parts of it seem to be
in a limbo, indecisive on whether to worship its gods or sell their
idols. Not surprisingly, the city wakes up and gets buzzing quite early for
Sunday standards. Deciding which of over 20000 temples to visit must be a tough
early morning decision! It is probably unfortunate that most of what one sees
in Banaras now is what Ghauri* decided was unimportant in his plundering feat.
The Kaashi Vishwanath Temple has been an
attraction for devotees from all across the country for so many centuries that
the labyrinth of narrow streets surrounding it would only surprise you a
little. There are shops, hundreds of them, selling the same items in every
street, with the price decided by the distance from the temple (and hence 'the
degree of holiness'). All of these streets, and the shops alongside, seem to
have a random slope upwards and downwards, and definitely make the walk to the
temple an effort for some. Kashi Vishwanath also has a disappointing 'official'
website that has features like Live Darshan, Online Donation
and e-Pooja!
The Banaras Hindu University is one of the proudest possessions
of this city. The land donated by Kashi Naresh has now evolved into one of the
largest universities in Asia itself. But it is not as much the size of the
campus that inspires awe as the immaculate naturalness with which a
horde of flora and fauna houses itself there. It also has a Vishwanath Temple,
located in the centre of the campus with a spread complex for seven temples, a
trip to which in the morning is impressive enough, but costly if you choose to
eat at one of the restaurants just outside it (pretty reminiscent of
south Indian temple complexes, except for the cost thing.. sometimes!).
The ghats of the river Ganga are given names, some very grand,
others much local. These are the places where evening prayers are offered. A
visit during the Navrata period at dusk would give you captivating glimpses of
the strength of devotion- with hundreds of people chanting in union, priests
holding elaborate large oil lamps, a lifelong tradition reflected in the black
waters of the river. There are even brightly illuminated processions on boats
at the same time. To just sit on the stony steps and watch all of this is one
overwhelming experience. And to not have a camera to store proofs is one
overplus of genius!
In the evenings, on one of these ghats you're very likely to
find an old babu along with this little grandchild, just
sitting on the steps talking to others, retelling some old story, or letting on
the evening activities of the ghats to a visitor while the little one plays
around aimlessly. He, and those boatmen across must have seen so many sunsets
over the river, so many celebrations on these banks, so many forms of the
mighty river from so many other ghats.. he must also have been a fan of the
famous Banarasi paan some time.. :)
It would take a lot more time to get to know this city. From the
busy market that has sprung around the Kashi Vishwanath temple, to the stony
banks of the sacred even if unbelievably polluted river; from its repute as the
textile and fabrics land, to the evening prayers of the masses, Banaras takes
on various colours along every direction.
Banaras has survived through time.. the city of temples must
even be favoured by the gods.
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*Sultan Muhammad Ghauri was a ruler of Ghurid dynasty, who
invaded large parts of what is now Northern India. One of his men, Qutubuddin
Aibak was the first sultan of
Delhi.
